Skeletons, Games Workshop

My brother spotted these figures in a local toy shop, suggesting that they could be used for Dragon Rampant. I'm assuming these are relatively old as I can't find any reference to just plain old skeletons from Games Workshop anymore. There are only five models but from what I've read the game doesn't always require six and twelve models per unit. I have a few Mantic skeletons which may be useful to bolster this unit. 

Front View

Rear View

Box Art

Sprue front detail

Sprue Rear Detail

Unusually for a Games Workshop product there are no alternative head or weapon options available. You only get enough to make five skeletons armed with spears and shields and no head options.

I wanted to give the impression that these skeletons could have existed for centuries. To achieve this I added the rust and verdigris effects more generously than I would normally. 

With the film 'Jason and the Argonauts' firmly in mind I may buy a few ancient Greek hoplites for these to spare against, but that's another project for another day.

Wilko Dragons

My brother first spotted these dragons wondering round one of my favourite stores Wilko. For non-UK readers this is a British high-street chain which sells homewares and household goods, formerly known as Wilkinson before a big re-brand a few years ago. The store often provides a great source of items for gaming and modelling, basing and terrain material, lighting etc. Wilko also often stocks items (i.e. toys) that can be real bargains. 

With the recent release of the Dragon Rampant rule set I have been keeping an eye out for fantasy based items/figures so when I saw these models I had a closer look. There are numerous different types and colours available. Other examples can be seen on the [Wilko website].

Expecting the model to cost £5, such as the nearby plastic dinosaurs, I was surprised when the till registered the price as £2. Note the size of a relatively large Warlord Games Scot figure in comparison, you can see that you get an awful lot of plastic for your money. Showing off my new purchase in my local gaming store the owner, Vince, went out and bought one for himself. At £2 it would be wrong not to! 

Pottering around another Wilko store I decided I had to buy another one (just in case of emergencies). 

I will probably clean up the model, there are a few mould lines that need tidying up. I will also give it a new paint job. It isn't really necessary but I'm curious if I can improve it slightly with extra detailing.

I thought I'd let any UK readers that may have an interest in fantasy gaming know about these bargain models in case they fly off the shelves (pun intended) or are discontinued any time soon.

Warcaster Kommander Sorscha, Warmachine (Privateer Press)

Another month, another project. Not really, only joking. This is just a quick post for my own reference really as it's another figure I painted for my mate Ade (WargamingForFun link).

For this figure I stuck to a rather subdued colour palette, using mainly my standard red and brown leather paints (although saying that I've just counted and realised that I actually used six 'base' colours, that's not including high/lowlights).

I'm getting more and more tempted by this range as the models are very easy to model and paint up. It is one of the few (modern) rule sets that I've been able the grasp the basics off from playing a couple of games. Must resist temptation!

Man-o-War Shocktrooper, Warmachine (Privateer Press)

During a pleasant English summer evening (i.e. taking shelter from the awful recent weather) in my mate Ade's (WargamingForFun) man cave I was perusing his unpainted figures. To repay his hospitality (more tea and home-made cakes than a grown man can handle) I offered to paint a figure for him. As he is currently going through a Warmachine-phase, which appears to me to be a Cold War/steampunk'ish inspired game, I picked this Man-o-War Shocktrooper.

This a figure from the Khador faction (communist?), the utilitarian look and simply colour scheme did appeal to me. I even managed to play a couple of games as I could pick up the simple basics of the rules after a few games.

Normally I would assemble the model after painting but Ade had already glued it together, even so the plastic figure is very easy to paint. Following the examples in the rules boxes this model is basically red all over with gold and silver details. I employed my usual three layer technique playing particular attention with the washes to add shade to the heat affected areas around the vents and shield muzzle etc.

If you noticed a distinct improvement with the quality of the photographs that would be because I didn't take them. Ade kindly did the honours as my mom had asked to have her camera back to take with her on holiday (cheeky minx!).

I'm now painting a Kommander Sorscha Warcaster figure and will post that as soon as it's done.

Pirate Ogre Whaler - Part 3 of 3

The figure was painted using my usual 'Block, Wash and Highlight' method. As I mentioned to my mate Ade (WargamingForFun) recently I really find painting a necessary evil.

Hat & Tattoo Detail

I added the anchor and sperm whale tattoos along with his latest tally onto the ogre's shoulder.

Rear View

The false leg was painted to resemble whale bone/ivory - based on Gregory Peck's portrayal of the character Captain Ahab from the film 'Moby Dick'.

I also added a little red and green (as I believe ogres are equal opportunity killers) gore to the cleaver .

The only drawback to this figure is now I think he bears an unhealthy resemblance to the guitarist Slash from the popular 80's rock combo Guns 'n' Roses (never my cup of tea, to be honest). He's only lacking the dark poodle perm hairstyle.

I do have a couple of further ideas to that would enable me to produce possibly two more ogres on a vaguely pirate theme. These, however are both on the back burner for the immediate future as I am heading in a historical direction.

Pirate Ogre Whaler - Part 2 of 3

For several weeks, this figure stood idly by, silently watching as other figures were made and painted. Then, for some reason, I recalled a comment (made by someone on TMP - thanks Skeptic!) about a previous ogre model I had made,

"Nice idea! Now, how about a pirate ogre whaler (with harpoon, of course)?"

The answer to all my problems

Aha, what a good idea. With this in mind I used Google (All Hail) Images and obtained enough reference material to be able to scratch-build the harpoon.

The main body of the harpoon itself was made from the ever useful waste plastic sprue that is normally thrown away (but being a modeller I naturally hoard the stuff).

The metal shaft was made from metal tube (actually the cut down needle from an empty liquid poly cement applicator).

The head of the harpoon was made from greenstuff, formed into a suitable pointy shape.

The rope is from scrap copper electric cable, two strands were bent around a pen and then twisted until it has the appearance of rope.

Looking at the ogre with its false leg and harpoon - it gradually dawned on me who it reminded me of; Captain Ahab (played by the late great actor Gregory Peck) in the classic 1956 film 'Moby Dick'. As I didn't really want to make a long coat (because I'm lazy and it might just appear on another ogre figure I have in mind) the other notable item of clothing in his wardrobe was his hat. This would also help distinguish him from the other ogre figures.

After removing the previous tricorn hat I did initially consider making the new hat from greenstuff but I thought using thin plastic card would be more suitable (and easier).

I rolled a thin strip of plastic sheet into a tubular, oval shape, then clamped (with small bulldog clips) and glued it in order to hold it into its new form. Just as a little detail I cut triangular shapes into the back of the hat to indicate bite marks and hint at just how this chap might have lost his leg.

Pirate Ogre Whaler - Part 1 of 3

a.k.a Yet another pirate ogre.

This figure is the latest in the occasional series of models all based around the pirate ogre theme. These few posts record the rather torturous method I used to complete this miniature.

Initial mock up

The initial idea behind this figure was to create a figure based on the Long John Silver character from Robert Louis Stevenson's classic story 'Treasure Island'. I gave the model a greenstuff eye-patch and cut off one of the legs. I had planned on giving the figure a crutch, but more of this later.

Recalling the previous ogre pirates, I had supplied one with food and drink; thinking along these lines I wanted this ogre to be a hardened booze hound so I thought 'Give him a proper drink'. Rather than just a wimpy cup I reasoned why not give him the barrel to use as a beer jug.

The jug is made from a spare barrel I had left over from a previous raid on Ade's spares box. One end was cut away to form a hollow shape (although I then went and filled it back up again with plastic off cuts and melted it all with liquid poly cement to form a smooth surface).

The pipe is made from scrap plastic sprue simply using an approximate sized drill bit to hollow out the pipe and whittling away the shaft until it looked suitably pipe-like.

Note the liberal use of Blu-Tac. I use this to try out ideas to see if they'll work. It allows you to step back (literally) and view the model from a distance to see if they look right. You will see in the inital stages I had planned on having an owl sit on the ogre's shoulder (the owl was the only model bird I could lay my hands on as I didn't fancy the hard work of making another parrot).

Once happy with the basic idea I pinned the right foot of the model to the base using a small cutoff piece of a paper clip.

The smoothly filled barrel looked quite boring so being a proper ale fan I added a nice foamy head with greenstuff. I glued the barrel directly against the ogre's hand and, when dry, added a greenstuff handle.

The earring was made from cutting away a random piece of plastic I spotted lurking in Ade's spares box.

The tricorn hat is made from the ubiquitous greenstuff.

With the belly plate, I cut away the existing triangular 'teeth' and then modelled the skull and crossbones into place with greenstuff. This was done simply by using two long strips and an oval blob of greenstuff. Then using a blade, a scribe and a sculpting tool I cut and poked the material until it looked vaguely like a 'skull and crossbones' shape.

Useless walking stick

Note the owl is still only Blu-Tac'ed into position

The false leg was made from the cap of an empty Revell poly cement needle applicator. I made the majority of this figure at roughly the same time as the pirate ogre fisherman model but I got to this stage and just hit a mental blank. The main trouble was that it looked too similar to a previous ogre figure I had made (the ogre musician/bellower) especially with the false leg. It didn't help matters that I hadn't checked to see if this was the same limb I had lopped off the other miniature. Typically it was the same left leg - ahh fudge!

Originally I thought of having the figure hobbling along with a crutch tucked under his left arm, but I simply couldn't make this work. Someone had suggested the clever idea drilling a hole between the arm and the body to accommodate the head of the crutch but I still couldn't figure how the hand would hold the support. After giving up the crutch idea I then tried to make a walking stick from sprue. But to be perfectly honest it looked awful, the angles were all wrong (see photos above). I realised that instead of looking like a fearsome monstrous brute I had just made the ogre look like a disgruntled OAP ("Go and play round your own end, pesky little ogres! Moan, moan, gripe, gripe").

Pirate Ogre Fisherman, the Highlight - Part 6 of 6

The final step of the painting technique I employ is the 'Highlight Stage'.

Completed Ogre Fisherman

This stage is obviously when, in order to create a highlight, I normally add a little Vallejo white paint from one of their dropper bottles, or another lighter complimentary shade (with red, for instance, try orange or yellow unless you actually want pink highlights). Depending on what effect you want to achieve, it is during this stage that you can gradually build up the levels of highlight by adding increasing amounts of the lighter shade to the main colour.

I realise that my highlights often appear too harsh or stripy on my photos but under normal light conditions these look far more subtle (honestly, your Honour).

Rear View

It was at this stage I also repainted the fish tails. The previous effects didn't work at all, but with the help of Google Images (praise be) I managed to find a decent photo to copy off. The figure was then given a coat of Winsor and Newton Galeria Acrylic Satin Varnish to seal the paint. I then spray the figure with Games Workshop's Purity Seal varnish which is the only varnish I know that gives a consistently matt finish. Once dry I then finally reapply the Galeria Acrylic Satin Varnish to any 'metal' parts to give them a bit more sheen and give the model an extra contrast.

Although I wasn't entirely happy with a few details, such as where the loop in the chain is joined together (I should have used strips of greenstuff rather than that unshapely blob) overall I am pleased with how the model turned out.

Hopefully these few posts have encouraged readers to have a go at modifying or converting their own miniature. You can, if you're so inclined, produce an entirely unique set of figures. The multi-part nature of these particular range of figures really do lend themselves very well to this process.

I've hit a bit of a impasse (modeller's block?) in regard to the final figure in this pirate ogre theme mini-series so he may not appear for a while.

Pirate Ogre Fisherman, the Wash - Part 5 of 6

The next step is the 'Wash' (or shading) phase. This stage can to useful to cover up any mistakes made during painting in the block colours. I generally use Games Workshop washes but you can also use artist inks or even a darker shade of the 'block' or main colour used previously.

Ogre - Applied wash

Ogre - Applied wash

Flesh Wash applied over the areas painted with Tallarn Flesh. I don't apply the wash over all the flesh areas of the figure (which would give the same effect as the 'dip method'. I simply apply the was into the creases or folds of the model. If you use a table lamp during painting, simply hold the figure close to the light and turn the figure to and fro as this will exaggerate the shadows.

I often hold the figure upside down when applying this layer so that the wash will naturally flow in the area that would form a shadow.

Ogre profile - Applied wash

GW Devlan Mud wash was used to give depth to the 'leather' bindings on the fishing rod and Baal red to shade the right trouser leg.

Ogre Rear view - Applied wash

Gryphonne Sepia wash added to the snap bag.

You may note that I have painted the helmet over with a wash of gold paint. This is just a personal preference as I like the effect it achieves. I think it gives a bit of extra 'warmth' to contrast against the 'cold' look of the iron/steel colour components.

As mentioned in the previous post you could easily stop after this level of painting and still have an effective looking figure. But the next simple stage will again help finish off the model.

Pirate Ogre Fisherman, the Block - Part 4 of 6

The first stage of painting the block phase where the main colours are applied to the model.

Ogre - Block colour (main) painted

As mentioned previously this figure is painted using eight main colours. This could have been reduced even further if the trouser legs had been painted the same colour and the bag had been painted light brown (leather).

At the request of Ade, I gave this ogre the elite 'uniform' of red and black trousers.

A useful tip is to keep a record of what paints you use for particular figures. this is especially useful if you're creating a large unit or army. If not I guarantee you'll forget what exact colours you've used, if at sometime in the future you wish to add the unit and maintain the same uniform look.

The colours break down as follows:
Silver - Metal parts
Dark Brown - Wood
Light Brown - Leather
Black - Trouser leg
Red - Trouser leg
Flesh - Flesh bits (obviously)
Cream - Linen snap bag

Sand - Base

Ogre profile - Block (or main) painted

Note that this stage the right hand is still held in postion with Blu-Tac. This allowed me to paint the areas behind then anchor. If you are so inclined you could stop painting after this stage and the figure would be perfectly acceptable on the tabletop when seen from a distance (and GW tournaments). However with just a bit more time and effort you can transform the figure completely. How? I'll explain in the next couple of posts (what a tease!).

Pirate Ogre Fisherman, the Model - Part 3 of 6

This stage is where the model itself all came together. I cut the anchor shalf into two pieces and glued both parts into position on the right hand.

Fishing Rod Greenstuff

Note the crude left-handed mechanism. This is the benefit of trying a dry fit (i.e. using Blu-Tac rather than glue) first. A right-handed (i.e. standard) winding mechanism would have meant the handle would point towards the belly plate and made the 'centre' of the model look far too busy and cluttered.

Fishing Rod Mechanism

Handle is made from sprue and the cut-off handle from an ogre club.

The chain mechanism is another item from Ade's spares box. The chain itself is a standard product available from any decent model or hobbycraft shop.

The eyelets for the chain were made from a paperclip bent to form a loop. This was surprisingly difficult to achieve, I had to eventually resort to using a pair of round nose pliers. I drilled small holes into the rod and glued them into place. Greenstuff was then used to cover the joints and made to look like leather strapping by simply scoring the greenstuff with a scalpel and scribe. Fortunately the rough nature of my manufacturing technique fits in ok with the ogre pirate ogre 'look'.

The base now covered with sand. Wood glue was applied all over the base and then sand was poured over and left overnight. These pirate ogre bases have all been kept deliberately plain and uncluttered.